In the world of lip care, myths and misconceptions abound. From the fear of lip balm "addiction" to claims that certain ingredients are dangerous, separating fact from fiction can be challenging. As a cosmetic chemist, I've spent years researching what actually happens when you use lip care products—and much of what you've heard is simply not supported by science. Let's examine the most persistent lip balm myths and uncover the truth.
Myth #1: You Can Become Addicted to Lip Balm
This is perhaps the most widespread myth in lip care, and it's easy to see why people believe it. Many lip balm users feel they "can't stop" using the product, reaching for it constantly throughout the day. This feels like addiction, but it isn't—at least not in the medical sense.
The Truth
True addiction involves physiological dependence, where the body develops tolerance and experiences withdrawal symptoms without the substance. Lip balm doesn't cause this. What people experience is behavioural habituation combined with the natural characteristics of lips.
Here's what's actually happening: Lips naturally don't produce their own moisture, so they always need external protection, especially in dry environments. When you use lip balm regularly, you become accustomed to how your lips feel when protected. When the balm wears off, you notice the difference and want to reapply. This isn't addiction—it's awareness of your lips' normal state.
đź’ˇ The Real Story
Some lip balms contain ingredients like menthol, camphor, or phenol that can cause a mild tingling sensation. Overuse of these products can slightly irritate lips, creating a cycle of irritation and relief. If you feel dependent on a specific product, try switching to a simpler formula without these ingredients.
Myth #2: Lip Balm Makes Your Lips Lazy
A common claim is that using lip balm prevents your lips from "learning" to moisturise themselves, making you dependent on external products.
The Truth
This myth misunderstands basic lip anatomy. Lips don't have sebaceous glands—the oil-producing glands that keep other skin moisturised. They cannot produce their own moisture, period. No amount of "training" will change this biological fact. Using lip balm doesn't make your lips lazier; they were never capable of self-moisturising in the first place.
The confusion may arise because when you stop using lip balm, your lips eventually seem to "adjust." What's actually happening is that your lips aren't healing—you're simply becoming accustomed to their dry state. This isn't healthier; you've just lowered your comfort threshold.
Myth #3: Natural Ingredients Are Always Better and Safer
The natural beauty movement has led many to believe that natural ingredients are inherently superior to synthetic ones, and that "chemicals" are harmful.
The Truth
Everything is made of chemicals—water is a chemical, so is coconut oil. The natural versus synthetic distinction is largely marketing, not science. Some natural ingredients are highly beneficial (lanolin, beeswax, shea butter), while others can cause irritation or allergic reactions (essential oils, cinnamon, citrus extracts).
Meanwhile, some synthetic ingredients like petrolatum (petroleum jelly) have an excellent safety record spanning over 150 years and are recommended by dermatologists worldwide. The safety and efficacy of an ingredient depends on the ingredient itself, not whether it comes from a plant or a laboratory.
🔑 What Really Matters
- Evidence of efficacy (does the ingredient actually work?)
- Safety record (has it been tested and used safely?)
- How well it's formulated in the final product
- Your individual reactions (patch test new products)
Myth #4: Petroleum-Based Products Are Dangerous
Petroleum jelly (petrolatum) and mineral oil have been vilified by some natural beauty advocates as toxic, carcinogenic, or harmful to skin.
The Truth
Cosmetic-grade petroleum jelly is one of the most thoroughly studied and safest skincare ingredients available. The confusion often stems from conflating highly refined cosmetic petrolatum with crude petroleum products—they are not the same.
Pharmaceutical and cosmetic-grade petrolatum undergoes extensive purification to remove any potentially harmful compounds. Regulatory bodies worldwide, including Australia's TGA, have approved it for topical use. Major dermatological organisations recommend petrolatum for treating dry skin and lips due to its excellent occlusive properties and outstanding safety profile.
That said, if you prefer to avoid petroleum-based products for environmental or personal reasons, excellent alternatives exist, including lanolin, shea butter, and plant waxes.
Myth #5: SPF Lip Balms Don't Really Work
Some people believe that sunscreen in lip balm is ineffective or just a marketing gimmick.
The Truth
SPF lip products absolutely work when used correctly. The active sunscreen ingredients (whether chemical filters like avobenzone or physical blockers like zinc oxide) function the same way on lips as they do on other skin. Studies confirm that SPF lip balms significantly reduce UV damage to lip tissue.
The issue is application and reapplication. Because lips are frequently licked, wiped, and used for eating and drinking, SPF products don't stay on as long as sunscreen applied elsewhere. Effective protection requires reapplication every one to two hours during sun exposure—more frequently if you're eating, drinking, or swimming.
âś… SPF Lip Balm Tips
Choose SPF 30 or higher for adequate protection. Apply generously—a thin swipe isn't enough. Set a reminder to reapply every 90 minutes when outdoors. In Australia's intense UV environment, lip sun protection is essential, not optional.
Myth #6: Drinking More Water Will Fix Dry Lips
While staying hydrated is often suggested as the solution for dry lips, the relationship is more complex than this myth suggests.
The Truth
Hydration does play a role in lip health—severe dehydration can affect your lips along with the rest of your body. However, if you're adequately hydrated (not severely dehydrated), drinking extra water won't dramatically change your lip condition.
Dry lips are primarily caused by external factors: environmental conditions, sun exposure, wind, lip licking habits, and the inherent inability of lips to produce protective oils. Drinking an extra litre of water won't counteract the drying effects of an air-conditioned office or a windy day.
The solution is external protection (lip balm) combined with adequate—not excessive—hydration. Drinking reasonable amounts of water is healthy for many reasons, but it's not a magic cure for dry lips.
Myth #7: Lip Balms Cause Cancer
Alarming claims occasionally circulate online suggesting that lip balms contain carcinogenic ingredients or that frequent lip product use increases cancer risk.
The Truth
There is no credible scientific evidence linking standard lip balm use to cancer. Lip products sold in Australia must meet TGA safety standards, and ingredients are evaluated for safety including potential carcinogenicity.
Ironically, NOT using lip protection actually increases cancer risk. Unprotected sun exposure is the leading cause of lip cancer, and Australia has one of the highest rates of lip cancer in the world. SPF lip products are protective, not harmful.
Some concern arose from studies finding trace amounts of certain compounds in some lip products. However, detection doesn't equal danger—the levels found were far below those considered harmful, and regulatory agencies have determined these products are safe for use.
⚠️ Real Lip Cancer Risk
The proven risk factor for lip cancer is cumulative UV exposure, not lip balm use. Protecting your lips with SPF products reduces your risk. If you're concerned about lip cancer, focus on sun protection and regular skin checks, not avoiding lip balm.
Myth #8: Expensive Lip Balms Work Better
Premium lip products often cost 5-10 times more than basic drugstore options, leading many to assume they must be more effective.
The Truth
Price often reflects marketing, packaging, brand positioning, and retail margins—not ingredient quality or effectiveness. A $5 lip balm containing lanolin and beeswax can work just as well (or better) than a $30 luxury product.
What matters is the formulation and ingredients, not the price tag. Some expensive products are indeed excellent, but so are many affordable options. The best approach is to understand what ingredients work (see our ingredients guide) and choose products based on their formulation, not their price.
Myth #9: You Should Let Chapped Lips Heal Naturally
Some believe that leaving chapped lips alone allows them to heal naturally, while using products somehow interferes with this process.
The Truth
Lips lack the ability to heal themselves effectively when exposed to drying conditions. Without protection, lips lose moisture continuously, making "natural healing" extremely slow at best and impossible at worst in harsh environments.
Applying protective products actually supports healing by preventing further moisture loss and creating conditions where repair can occur. Think of lip balm like a bandage—it protects the damaged area while your body does the repair work underneath.
The Bottom Line
Much of what we think we know about lip care is based on misunderstanding, outdated information, or marketing spin rather than science. The fundamentals are simple: lips need external protection because they can't moisturise themselves. Sun protection reduces cancer risk. Ingredients should be evaluated on their merits, not whether they're "natural" or "chemical."
Don't let myths prevent you from caring for your lips properly. Armed with accurate information, you can make informed choices about the products you use and the habits you maintain.
For evidence-based lip care advice, explore our beginner's guide to lip care and SPF guide.